Meet Laura Fullerton the owner and designer behind Capstone Pattern Co.!  Capstone Pattern Co. is a small Canadian business striving to provide thoughtfully designed, timeless, easy-to-follow sewing patterns for modern-day makers as well as a line of quality woven garment labels for your handmade projects.

Can you tell us a little about who or what started you on your sewing journey?

Although I learned how to sew as a kid, and always loved making things, I only discovered the magic of garment making about 12 years ago, when I moved to Hamilton and stumbled into Needlework – a beautiful indie sewing shop/workspace. It opened up a world of making I didn’t know existed, and I loved being able to make things I could wear and use. At the time, I had no idea I would one day pursue work in this field, but felt awakened and excited about the possibilities sewing opened up.

You mentioned in an Instagram post that you left your previous job in medical research to study fashion design and pattern drafting.  Looking back, is there anything you would change about this transition?

The only thing I would have done differently is enroll in a fashion design program sooner! I’d been considering making a career transition for years, as I never felt medical research was the right fit for me, and looking back, could have started my technical training earlier to speed up the process.

I knew I loved sewing and working with my hands, but didn’t have any formal training in Fashion Design or Pattern Drafting, and knew I’d have to develop these skills before changing career paths. At the time, I was drawn to the possibility of starting a sewing pattern business, but was intimidated by all I had to learn. It wasn’t until I was on maternity leave with my son that I finally decided to enroll in Fashion Design at Mohawk College. I loved the creative aspect of designing and the technical challenge of drafting, so felt I’d found the right fit. Although it took me 3 years to complete my program and finally launch Capstone Pattern Co., I learned so much along the way and am very happy to be doing this work. 

How has the process of making by hand influenced your life?

Sewing/making has given me so much through the years – time to reflect, a sense of empowerment, an ability to make things I love, and a way to ground myself and connect with community. It’s helped me grow confidence in my abilities, and has served as a steady friend through life’s ups and downs. 

I’ve learned so many valuable lessons from the practice of making – things don’t have to be perfect to be beautiful, and mistakes happen and can often be fixed if we’re willing to try. The practice of making has given me a huge sense of satisfaction and joy in my life… it’s something I want to help others experience it too! 

Where do you find inspiration for your patterns?

Inspiration can come from anywhere – films, photographs, street style, sometimes even nature or something unrelated to fashion. I like to keep track of the things that inspire me both on my phone and in a sketchbook.

Sometimes ideas seem to come from nowhere, but other times they seem to be connected to some form of problem-solving, like how to hide/reveal something, or how to provide closure on a garment in a unique or simplified way. Sometimes I think of a part of the body I’d like to reveal with a design – like the back or shoulder, and how I might do that in an interesting and practical way. I usually I get ideas as I’m working – being immersed in the making process encourages me to try new things. 

I think it’s important for clothing to be comfortable and functional, but also unique with elements of interest. I love when patterns provide opportunities for creative expression and wearing things in different ways, so try to keep that in mind as I work. I usually try to make things I’d like to wear myself, and hope that if I’m excited to wear a design, others may feel the same.

What have you learned about your own personal style through making and designing sewing patterns?

Learning to design and sew clothing has transformed my relationship with my wardrobe –it’s helped me discover my personal style and has encouraged me to consume in a more intentional way.

I think because sewing requires so much time and energy, it prompts an extra level of reflection about likes/dislikes and personal style. I’ve never been someone with a lot of clothing, but when I started sewing, I started thinking a lot more about what I wanted to wear/make, and why I gravitated to certain items in my wardrobe and not others. I noticed I was only wearing a small fraction of what I owned, and that my favourite pieces were all comfortable, versatile, and made with high-quality fibres. 

Sewing is an eye-opening practice, because when you sew, you realize just how much energy goes into making things, and how under-valued this labour is in much of the clothing industry. It becomes clear that we should be paying more for the clothing we buy, and that a lot of exploitation occurring, which encouraged me to be more intentional about what I was purchasing. I don’t consider myself highly fashionable, but enjoy knowing what works for me and combining pieces in fun and creative ways.

It may sound funny, but one of my biggest style revelations of the past few years was learning the power of a really great pant. In many ways, I think the right pant can make or break an outfit. I really like high-waisted pants and shorts, and feel that if I’m wearing a nicely-fitted pant, almost any kind of top works well with it. It may seem simple, but this discovery has made getting dressed so much easier for me.

Are there any specific skills you would like to explore or expand on to grow your personal making practice?

I’ve started doing a bit of leather work lately, and am feeling very drawn in, so would love to learn more and incorporate it into my making practice. I’d also love to broaden my knowledge of traditional tailoring techniques.

What’s the last project you worked on (or are still working on!) and what did you like most about it? Is there anything about the project that is holding you up?  How do you get over that hump?

I’m currently working on a dre ss pattern and just finalized the design, which is always a time-consuming part of the process for me.

When working on a patten, I usually start with a clear idea of what I’d like to make, but once I draft and sew it, tend to spend weeks, even months, playing with fit and different design variations before settling on the final design. Usually, I know how I want the piece to look, but then go through a process of questioning each decision and playing with different style lines and features until I’m sure I’m happy with it. I often gravitate towards the simplest version, which is usually close to where I started, but have to go through this process to be sure.

Something I’ve learned is that it’s easier for me to maintain momentum with a project when working on two different things at once. For some reason, the ability to go back and forth between projects helps reduce any resistance that comes up.

Is there a sewing term or technique you favour? Why does it speak to you as a maker?

I love neat/tidy seam finishing, so really notice and appreciate techniques that enclose raw edges in clever and tidy ways. I like using French seams, flat-felled seams, and bias binding when it makes sense to do so, as I find clean finishes so satisfying. I also like facings and linings for this same reason. Of course, some techniques require more time/effort than others, but if they result in a piece that is beautiful and made to last, it’s worth it.

As a pattern designer, what do you look for when purchasing/deciding on a pattern to make?

If a design is unique, has interesting features, shows attention to detail, and is aligned with my personal style, I’m immediately drawn in. There are a few pattern companies I love for their fit, design elements, and clear instructions, so when they put out something I like, I’m happy to give it a try. I’m also happy to try patterns from new designers. I love looking at hashtags to see how a pattern looks on people who have already sewn it - it can be a great way to get inspiration and a sense of how it fits and looks on others.

What advice would you offer to your past self, or someone who is just starting their sewing journey?

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with being a beginner! Sewing is an incredibly rewarding practice, but can also be frustrating and challenging at times (and if you feel that way from time to time, it’s totally normal). 

We all make mistakes and it’s a normal part of the making process… at this point, I honestly think I’ve made all the mistakes that can be made! I used to be hard on myself when I made mistakes, but have learned to accept them, as they’re part of the making process, and happen to everyone. Making mistakes is also a sign that you’re pushing your skills beyond your comfort zone, which is a really good thing to do.

Other advice would be, take your time (rushing is your worst enemy), don’t be afraid to ask for help if you’re confused/stuck, be selective with your fabric choices (the right type of fabric can make/break a project), and keep going!

Connect with Laura Fullerton and Capstone Pattern Co. on Instagram and at capstonepatternco.com

Shop our full selection of Capstone Pattern Co. labels and garment patterns here!